Hi all,
first post, new member - treat me gently!
I need to remove the prop driver from a SAUER VW 1834 engine fitted to a Tipsy Nipper. Can anyone point me in the right direction, i.e. is the big nut a R/H or L/H thread and is there an easy way of locking the crank to prevent rotation?
Thanks in advance
PS, despite repeated e-mails to SAUER, I've never had a reply, nor do I have a manual! Can anyone help?
Removing prop driver VW 1834
Moderators: John Dean, Moderator
Removing prop driver VW 1834
regards
Gary Taylor
Gary Taylor
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- Posts: 34
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:06 pm
Hello Gary,
I usually wait to see if anyone else answers messages, but as on one has I will give you my twopence worth.
I presume you are refering to the propeller flange or hub. If this is fitted to the dynamo pulley drive end of the engine, then the bolt is a conventional right hand thread. (I seem to remember it is an M14 bolt) It will have some locking arrangement, or threadlock to prevent it from unscrewing in flight. It will, in any case be very tight. You can bolt a piece of angle iron, or similar to the flange to stop it turning. The end of the crankshaft should be an interference fit in the hub. That is the shaft will be about 0.0015 inches greater in diameter than the hole in the hub. This means that you will need a suitable puller to remove the hub. Unless you are suitably equipped you will need the services of a workshop that has a puller to carry this out.
Unless you really need to detach the hub, I would suggest you leave it well alone.
Noel.
I usually wait to see if anyone else answers messages, but as on one has I will give you my twopence worth.
I presume you are refering to the propeller flange or hub. If this is fitted to the dynamo pulley drive end of the engine, then the bolt is a conventional right hand thread. (I seem to remember it is an M14 bolt) It will have some locking arrangement, or threadlock to prevent it from unscrewing in flight. It will, in any case be very tight. You can bolt a piece of angle iron, or similar to the flange to stop it turning. The end of the crankshaft should be an interference fit in the hub. That is the shaft will be about 0.0015 inches greater in diameter than the hole in the hub. This means that you will need a suitable puller to remove the hub. Unless you are suitably equipped you will need the services of a workshop that has a puller to carry this out.
Unless you really need to detach the hub, I would suggest you leave it well alone.
Noel.
With my albeit limited experience of aviation (not Sauer) VW 1834s I have to agree with Noel - leave the prop hub alone if at all possible.
The Acro hub on the conversion I rebuilt had to be removed using a hydraulic press once the crankshaft had been removed from the engine.
The fixing bolt was nothing special as I recall - just rather large. I acquired a new long one to draw the hub back on after I'd changed the main crankshaft bearings. That came from a fairly normal fasteners and engineering supplies place.
The Acro hub on the conversion I rebuilt had to be removed using a hydraulic press once the crankshaft had been removed from the engine.
The fixing bolt was nothing special as I recall - just rather large. I acquired a new long one to draw the hub back on after I'd changed the main crankshaft bearings. That came from a fairly normal fasteners and engineering supplies place.
Rob Swain
If the good Lord had intended man to fly, He would have given him more money.
If the good Lord had intended man to fly, He would have given him more money.