582 Streaks & Temps

twojoes · Post by **twojoes** » Thu May 15, 2008 1:26 pm

With the hot weather, I was wondering if there was any streak shadow owners out there with a 582 without the airscoup?
Without the scoup, my coolant temps go way too high (even with a mainly water mix) - so I've no choice but to have the scoup.
I've heard of some (although not seen) whose rads have been mounted slightly further apart and there may be other set-ups that work.

If there are any 582 streak owners without a scoup & still able to keep temps below 90C, please drop me a note.
Cheers

Joe

WBerry · Post by **WBerry** » Sat May 24, 2008 8:25 pm

Not had any trouble on mine. You can see pics on AFORS as its the group A Streak thats up for sale. There's one pic with a fair view of the radiator on. Hope it helps.

twojoes · Post by **twojoes** » Wed May 28, 2008 2:38 pm

Is yours a narrow body streak?
I'm wondering if this is the difference between those with/without problems.

Regards

Joe

WBerry · Post by **WBerry** » Wed May 28, 2008 7:19 pm

Yes, mine is narrow body. I've not heard of streaks usually having this problem though. Have you asked Dannie Crosbie about this? I'm sure you can get his details from a web search.

Captain Pulsar · Post by **Captain Pulsar** » Wed May 28, 2008 11:31 pm

Two Joes,
just a thought, but you are using distilled or de-min water for your coolant arn't you. I mention it because I have witnessed a 582 cylinder head water jacket corrode so much the corrosion restricts the flow to the point the motor overheats, just by using tap water as the coolant. Any trace metals in the coolant will corrode the aluminium heads faster than you think.

If the problem persists, it might be worth pulling a hose off the top of the head and having a good look inside.

twojoes · Post by **twojoes** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:12 am

I've spoken to Danny about this problem, some people have extended the rads out an inch or so, this confirms my thoughts that the narrow body shadows are probably immunine to this problem - the widebody (like mine) probably need the shroud or modification to push the rads further into the airflow.
In terms of coolant, I've always used distilled water + antifreeze (silkolene pro). My last attempt was with mostly water & water-wetter.

The engine had only done 50 hours before I got it, but I can't remember when I first changed the coolant (on or before it's 100hr service). So I will take a look at the water channels to see if there was any problems already there.

Regards

Joe

Bill McCarthy · Post by **Bill McCarthy** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 12:00 pm

It's the cylinder retaining bolts within, and at the bottom of the cooling jackets that get the corrosion. It doesn't matter if it's demin water or not, you will still get rust on the steel heads of these bolts if you don't use the specified coolant. It's the dissolved oxygen content of water that sets up the virulent corrosive cell. When you attempt to remove cylinders, you might regret using water if these bolt heads are badly corroded. It could turn out to be a major recovery action.