Jerry Cans

[flyingphil2]

Hi,
I aim to operate my aircraft with mogas carried in jerry cans. First of all, thanks to the LAA for the excellent article on fuel, published in the magazine a couple of months ago. Secondly, I need to get some Jerry Cans and I've noticed that quite a few outlets sell these with varying quality and price. However, I've also heard about paint flaking off inside the can etc. So, can anyone recommend a product and supplier?
Thanks,

Phil Tiller

[John Price]

Hi Phil,

If you really want to go whole hog, go for stainless steel jerry cans.
Demon Tweeks sell them for about £110.00 each Inc VAT
NOT CHEAP!!
But being stainless steel you do not have to faff about filtering the fuel to get the red lead primer out. And don't belive that it never comes off it always does.
The other benefit by being steel you don't get the hassle over static discharge, just put them on the ground.
We have had ours for 7 years and no issues.

Good luck,

John.

[Chris Martyr]

Can't disagree with John there. S/Steel jerry cans do look the mutts nuts and their quality is beyond question.
Heck of a price to pay though, especially if someone else takes a fancy to it, and if you are going to de-cant it into another type of dispenser, then having a gauzed funnel is always a good idea , however posh your jerry can is.
I have been using a standard green 20ltr Halfords item for 11 years now and it is still in perfect condition and they cost about 20-odd quid , I check the internals of the can and my fuel dispenser [ and the sediment bowl of my gascolator] fairly regularly.
I'm sure that over the years, jerry cans have been acquired from all sorts of places, like car-boot sales, autojumbles, even relics from WW2. That's probably where they get their reputation for harbouring contaminants.
Although having said that, I recently acquired an American Monarch jerry can , stamped 1944 , for a 4 wheeled project of mine , and guess what,,,the darn thing's perfect inside.
Go for a stainless steel item by all means Phil, but I'm sure that with a bit of common sense and judgement, you'll be fine with either.

[mcfadyeanda]

Depends how long you want to keep them. Cheap powder coated cans (eg Clarkes) don't last long until they need repainting, because when full they get wringing wet on the outside every diurnal temperature cycle, which in about 1 year lifts the external powder coating. The best that I had was some ex WD, which were galvanised below the green paint. But they're not all like that.
Filtering is essential anyway, whether the internal paint comes off or not.
Even then, any very fine rust dust from steel cans can pass through a filter, stick to then jam fuel flow senders (the variety that have magnets on the rotor), although this would otherwise pass through.

Duncan McF.

[Bouncer]

Wavian Jerry Cans:

http://www.jerrycans.co.uk/about-us-1-w.asp

Also suggest you purchase 10 litre cans as easier to pour straight into tank.

[flyingphil2]

Thanks for everyone's replies so far.

I'm going to look like a total newbie with some more questions:

There seems to be some good recommendations for steel jerry cans and the stainless ones are very shiny if you can afford them. Anyone use plastic? The LAA article suggested that 5l was the max you could carry with plastic but I'm seeing some good plastic 10l and 20l jerry cans advertised. However, is there an increased risk of static discharge with those?

Also, I'll need to raise the can quite high to refuel but I've heard about some small electric (or hand) fuel pumps that would allow the can to sit on the ground. Anyone use them?

Finally, I'd read that refuelling with the nozzle stuck in the tank opening was safer than pouring into a funnel that is sat in the tank opening. Since the funnel is a filter to catch the paint falling off the inside of the can, how would you filter the fuel if you just used a nozzle? Can you get a nozzle with a gauze filter inside?

Thanks,

Phil Tiller

[tnowak]

I wouldn't take any risks regarding bonding to ground when using any type of jerry can.
I made up a very simple grounding lead which connects metal jerry can to metal funnel to engine (exhaust system) to ground wire. Big crock clips on the end of each wire and an old screw driver to dig into the ground.

I found the standard gauze filter in the funnel was a bit coarse so added some stainless steel gauze from a tea strainer. I am sure you can buy ss gauze on Ebay but haven't looked.

I very occasionally use a plastic 9 litre jerry can (of US origin) and make sure the spout touches the metal funnel before starting to pour fuel.

Hope this helps.

Tony

[JohnLindsay]

I use a Polarn hand-operated pump (avialable from many motor sport accessory suppliers for around £40) that is designed specifically to fit into the top of a standard pattern 20 litre jerry can. Rather than the fuel passing through the pump itself, the pump simply pressurises the jerry can with air that then forces fuel up the hose and into the tank. It has a medium/coarse gauze filter incorporated into the pick-up end of the hose and so I also use a water-removing filter funnel in the top of the tank. Because the pump is sold mainly for use with cars whose fuel fillers are within easy reach, the hose that comes with the pump is rather short but there is an extension hose that I suggest will be necessary for most aircraft use. The system works well for me refuelling my VP-1.

John.

[Chris Martyr]

That'll be the Sywell award winning VP-1 then John.

[Apologies for drift,,,couldn't resist it ! ]

[JohnLindsay]

Yes indeed, Chris, what a good memory you have!

I have always felt slightly awkward about winning that award, partly because the visible bits of the aircraft are largely the result of the late Colin Goodman's excellent initial build and subsequent owners' endeavours rather than my own input, and partly because there were some much smarter potential winning aircraft at that Rally. That said, I love my VP-1 dearly and I regard the award as a tribute to the 900+ hours of fun that she has given her various pilots over almost 40 years. I am very lucky to be her current guardian.

John.

[Chris Martyr]

Don't be so modest John. Seeing VP's picking up awards in this day and age is good. My baby, G-EVPI has been in my life for 18years now. Seven years in the build and over 11 years service.
I will be renewing my FAA-BFR in a couple of weeks time in a Stearman , but guess which type gives more bang for your buck , more pleasure per pound [Sterling] . VP, you bet.

Anyway,,[apologies readers] moving swiftly back to the topic. I would advise Phil against re-fuelling directly from any vessel , metal or plastic. It's very difficult to know how close the fuel is from splurging out over the filler neck and damaging paintwork, windscreen, fabric etc etc. Whatever you go for , whether it's a suction pump or de-canting into a separate drum with its own rotary pump, it will be worth it. I use a 30ltr drum on wheels, the feedpipe is purposely kept a couple of inches away from the bottom of the drum. Works like magic.
Plus of course, the aeroplanes water drains. It's not just for water , it ain't called the sediment bowl for nothing. Small deposits are not that unusual, but anything out of the ordinary could be traced back to the vessel it originated from.
That's the great thing about "our" sort of flying. It's a constant process of learning.

[flyingphil2]

Just a quite note to say thanks for all the replies.

I think I've got a plan of what I'll do and it's now time to go shopping.

Thanks,

Phil Tiller