Can anyone advise me what the wear limits are for the fit of the anchor pins in the bushed holes in Cleveland torque plates?
Obviously they have to be completely free to move, but I have a used set of wheels and brakes and the pins seem a wee bit loose in the torque plate holes. Replacements are pretty expensive so I don't want to replace them if they are OK.
I notice that the calipers are positioned at the "front" of the discs on most Cessnas and assume that this might be the recommended arrangement in most cases.
My gear is similar to that on a "Cub" and I wonder if it matters where the calipers are positioned as long as they suit the hydraulic piping and are well clear of the ground.
Thanks!
Ian
Cleveland wheels: Brake Torque plates & anchor pins
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Ian
I did a Cleveland disc brake conversion on my Jodel. On that the brake assemblies face forward. But I've even seen them facing downwards which isn't a good idea ! That was on a Pitts. My setup had the hydraulic pipe coming in at the top, and the bleed nipple at the bottom of the caliper. This is logical when it comes to filling the system.
I made my own torque plates, these were not bushed, but they stood up well in service, and were never a problem.
If you're not happy about excessive play in the pin/torque plate, re-bush them, there's plenty of scope for that.
Regards
David H
I did a Cleveland disc brake conversion on my Jodel. On that the brake assemblies face forward. But I've even seen them facing downwards which isn't a good idea ! That was on a Pitts. My setup had the hydraulic pipe coming in at the top, and the bleed nipple at the bottom of the caliper. This is logical when it comes to filling the system.
I made my own torque plates, these were not bushed, but they stood up well in service, and were never a problem.
If you're not happy about excessive play in the pin/torque plate, re-bush them, there's plenty of scope for that.
Regards
David H