I want to do my own painting(all 6061 ali) so am exploring the options; spray, roller and brush. Experimented with Rustoleum Combicolour but petrol made it soft, and where it got underneath a deliberate scratch it wrinkled.
Has anyone used Stewart System paints? I'm drawn to their one pack primer and two pack poly top coat.
Paint
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mike newall
- Posts: 332
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:56 pm
- Location: N Yorkshire
What are you painting ?
What facilities do you have ?
Have you sprayed before ?
IMHO, the cheapest and easiest is a basic automotive etch primer followed by a hi build primer and then standard automotive 2 pack top coat.
That's what I did on our RV7 G-IVII and the results were most acceptable - my first full paint project.
What facilities do you have ?
Have you sprayed before ?
IMHO, the cheapest and easiest is a basic automotive etch primer followed by a hi build primer and then standard automotive 2 pack top coat.
That's what I did on our RV7 G-IVII and the results were most acceptable - my first full paint project.
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Richard Moore
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:21 am
I'm building a Groppo Trail. I have the space in my garage to make a spray booth. I used an airless spray gun to paint a large american fridge many years ago.
The idea of using a water based paint is that, if sprayed, forced air breathing apparatus is not required, a cheaper extractor fan can be used and cleaning is with water.
The Trail is not a glitzy type so it could be finished in gloss, satin or matt which, with a suitable paint, could be rolled, brushed or sprayed. It's just finding "a suitable paint".
It would be very helpful to find someone who has used Stewart Systems paints in U.K.
The idea of using a water based paint is that, if sprayed, forced air breathing apparatus is not required, a cheaper extractor fan can be used and cleaning is with water.
The Trail is not a glitzy type so it could be finished in gloss, satin or matt which, with a suitable paint, could be rolled, brushed or sprayed. It's just finding "a suitable paint".
It would be very helpful to find someone who has used Stewart Systems paints in U.K.
I've not used a water based polyuerathane - but the solvent based ones are tricky to spray. They need a 'dust cost' and then fairly precise 'finish' coat. Any additional over spraying will result in the coating sagging and running. With practice they give a good finish.
Without the solvent I would imagine they are much less tolerant of over coating.
Sweet talking an experienced sprayer will almost always result in a better result.... and I speak as someone with a reasonable level of experience and 'all the gear'
p.s. only use a HVLP gun - this stuff is too expensive to blast into the air!
Without the solvent I would imagine they are much less tolerant of over coating.
Sweet talking an experienced sprayer will almost always result in a better result.... and I speak as someone with a reasonable level of experience and 'all the gear'
p.s. only use a HVLP gun - this stuff is too expensive to blast into the air!
Pete Morris
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Brian Hope
- Posts: 1271
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- Location: Sheerness Kent
Hi Richard, I know Graham is promoting a roll-on/sponge on finish and I wish him well with it. I have reservations that you'll ever end up with a finish anuthing near a good spray finish but only you will know what you will be happy with.
Two pack polyurethane really does give a superb from the gun finish, but as gasax says, it is tricky for a beginner to get on with, and it is very toxic so some form of air fed mask is a must. HVLP is definitely the way to go too, conventional high pressure spraying is far far more wasteful of expensive materials, and messy as hell.
The Stewart System looks impressive, it is waterbourne which removes some, but not all, of the toxic risk. But the real problem with these two packs though is that they are not sympathetic to the amateur who gets a few runs. Generally it is very difficult, if not impossible to flat a run back and polish up the panel, you have to re-paint.
Worst of all the products are very expensive so you really need to do the job right first time. As Mike suggests, automotive products are less costly, and you can use them on a metal aircraft where you would be unwise to on fabric. If you are intent on spraying then buy some cheap materials to practice with on some old car panels, or board. Get somebody who knows what they are doing to show you how to set up the gun and teach you a good spraying tehnique. Then, when you are ready, move onto the aeroplane parts. By the time you get to the top coats you should be reasonably competent
Whatever system you choose, surface preparation, etching and priming are equally as important as the top coats, just as a good landing starts with a good circuit. So don't cut corners and make absolutely sure the ally surfaces are immaculately clean and dry before starting any paint application - and follow the manufacturer’s safety, preparation, mixing and application instructions. Remember too that not all products are compatible, it is better to stick to a single manufacturer's system than mix and match.
Two pack polyurethane really does give a superb from the gun finish, but as gasax says, it is tricky for a beginner to get on with, and it is very toxic so some form of air fed mask is a must. HVLP is definitely the way to go too, conventional high pressure spraying is far far more wasteful of expensive materials, and messy as hell.
The Stewart System looks impressive, it is waterbourne which removes some, but not all, of the toxic risk. But the real problem with these two packs though is that they are not sympathetic to the amateur who gets a few runs. Generally it is very difficult, if not impossible to flat a run back and polish up the panel, you have to re-paint.
Worst of all the products are very expensive so you really need to do the job right first time. As Mike suggests, automotive products are less costly, and you can use them on a metal aircraft where you would be unwise to on fabric. If you are intent on spraying then buy some cheap materials to practice with on some old car panels, or board. Get somebody who knows what they are doing to show you how to set up the gun and teach you a good spraying tehnique. Then, when you are ready, move onto the aeroplane parts. By the time you get to the top coats you should be reasonably competent
Whatever system you choose, surface preparation, etching and priming are equally as important as the top coats, just as a good landing starts with a good circuit. So don't cut corners and make absolutely sure the ally surfaces are immaculately clean and dry before starting any paint application - and follow the manufacturer’s safety, preparation, mixing and application instructions. Remember too that not all products are compatible, it is better to stick to a single manufacturer's system than mix and match.
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Bill McCarthy
- Posts: 488
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:06 pm
- Location: Caithness
I would seek out a car body repair shop and get some tips - even recruit the mechanic, have a go on a cut off panel or odd sheet of metal. There is definately a knack in spraying, correct distance, tented area to keep dust out - and high humidity can produce a duff finish. Too much paint can result in the A/C being too heavy.
Another subject candidate for a LAA course !
Another subject candidate for a LAA course !
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mike newall
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